On November 3rd, 1933 the Nazi party, recently come to power, demanded that all professors begin their lectures with the Nazi salute.
Wolfgang Köhler, a professor and director of the Psychological Institute at the University of Berlin, refused.
Then he went one step further, and wrote an article openly criticising the Nazi party. It was the last official article to do so. He found it expedient to leave Germany for the United States not long afterwards.
Kohler contributed to some landmark work on a new, holistic approach to psychology called Gestalt theory. What’s most interesting to us about Köhler is an experiment he did with chickens in order to learn more about the nature of vision.
It’s all relative
Köhler took two pieces of paper, one dark and one light, and trained the chickens to expect their dinner on the lighter of the two. He then replaced the darker piece of paper with one which was now lighter than the one the chickens were used to finding their feed on, which he left the same.
Instead of going back to the same piece of paper that they’d been happily pecking away at, the chickens went to the new, lighter piece of paper and waited to be fed. So it wasn’t the exact lightness of the paper that mattered to them, they just knew to look for their dinner on the lighter one of the two. So they went to the wrong one.
They saw value in terms of relationships. So do we. Which is handy, because without that way of seeing value, we’d be unable to paint anything realistically.
We see with our brains
We think of seeing as something we do with our eyes, as a physical ability. In fact, it’s much more complicated. What we think of as what we see is actually a construct we create in our brains from a combination of a visual impression and our previous experience, through which we infer things about the scene like the direction and strength of the light, the distance of objects from us and from each other, and their size.
Seeing is something we do with our brains. Seeing is psychological. Without the active part our brains take in constructing a meaningful image for us, we’d just have a swirl of sensory information that would mean nothing at all. We’d bump into things all the time. And we wouldn’t be able to create realistic art.
So getting values right isn’t about replicating what you see. The next time you hear someone say “paint what you see, not what you know” be careful. The advice itself is sound. But putting it into practice is a lot more complicated than it sounds.
In fact what we see and what we know are an indivisible whole. What we see is a result of what we know, and understanding that can help us get our values more right. Ignoring it can leave us sitting on the wrong piece of paper, waiting for our dinner and wondering why our paintings don’t look right.
Here’s an example. In the image below, the white square in the centre of each face is exactly the same value: white. But they don’t look the same. Because we’re making inferences about the value relative to the context. We know the white square on the shadow side of the cube is in shadow, so we know it should be darker. The only sense our brains can make of it appearing lighter is if it’s glowing – actually emitting light. So that’s what it looks like to us.
It looks significantly lighter than the corresponding white square in the centre of the other two sides of the cubes. Our brains have constructed a version of what we see that makes sense to us.

What this means for us artists is that if we try to paint what we see, what we know will get in our way whether we want it to or not. You can’t just switch it off. If I asked you to copy that cube in paint, and to paint what you see, you’d be trying to paint the white square in the middle of the shadow side of the cube lighter than the corresponding one on the top – even though they’re exactly the same. Of course you would, because that’s what you see. It’s inextricably linked with what you know.
You’d mess up the value relationships and you wouldn’t get your dinner.
Why values are the key to realism
We have to deal with this because values show light, and light shows form. Form creates depth and the illusion of reality.
To demonstrate this, let’s take a painting, and take out the colour information and see if the realism holds up.
Here’s a painting of an old iron on a cloth I did a little while back:
Let’s see it again the hue and chroma information removed, so we’re just seeing the values:
Still works, right? In fact, none of the feeling of reality, of depth has been lost.
Now, there are times when hue and chroma can convey quite a bit in paintings, but that happens less often than you might think. So it follows that creating a higher degree of realism in your work – painting something that looks more real – means mastering values more than anything else.
Mastering values
Given the above, it would very handy if we could find a way to see values more reliably, especially when we’re learning. I’ve found that the best way to do this is to remove the context information. You can do that quite simply with a small piece of card with a hole in the middle. I call it a colour isolator.
The really useful thing about this little tool is that you can use it to isolate local values as well as perceived values. The first, you can do reliably. The second needs a bit more care in its use.
Here’s a few ideas for value exercises that will help you get a better handle on things:
1. Build sensitivity to value by practising matching local values
This will stretch your ability to judge values and your ability to replicate them at the same time. It’s such a simple exercise, but it’s incredibly powerful, if you do it enough.
You can do it with pencil, charcoal or paint. All you need to do is to choose a value you want to match (preferably a flat surface) and lay your colour isolator on it. That gives you a small, isolated patch of value to try to match.
Then draw out a small square on a piece of sketch pad paper, and try match the value you see, with the two apart. This is important because it’s the guessing, then the feedback that will help build your sensitivity to value.Once you’ve filled your little square with your guess at the value, place it over the colour isolator and see how you did. This is your feedback.
In this pic, you can see that it took me three goes to close to this one, my first guesses were much too light:
2. Remove the context
Do a simple still life painting of a medium value cube. Use the colour isolator to judge small areas of value. Be careful to ensure that you always hold the isolator at the same angle to your subject. You can use the isolator to override the context information and judge the values in isolation:
3. Practise your value relationships
Paint more little value studies of simple still life subjects, of different local values. Start by painting a black, a white and a medium grey cube individually, then paint all three together.
For this exercise, you won’t be able to match the full range of values that you see in the subject. It’s the relationships between the values that matters, not the exact values.
A great further step for this exercise is to place a cube, a sphere and a real world object of the same value in a shadow box and do a value study of them:
In this exercise, the cube is a simplified version of the sphere, which is a simplified version of the lemon. So by painting the cube first, using your colour isolator to carefully judge the values, you can get a good idea of the value range you’ll need for the sphere and the lemon.
Here’s a shot of the set up for this exercise:
There are two little value scales with three values each. With one placed on the painting surface, and one on the subject, you can make sure you have enough light on your painting surface to be able to reach the lighter end of the values in the subject. If you don’t do this, you may find yourself painting the lightest value you can in your study, white, and it still not be light enough to visually match the lightest values in the subject. In practice, I find it helps enormously to make sure you can visually get close to the lights in an exercise like this.
What we see is what we know
With experience and practice, we learn to override what we know and so get closer to what we see. Although actually, I think a more correct explanation may be that we add additional, art specific knowledge to what we already have. So when we’re looking at a patch of white in shadow, we know to compensate and paint it darker than an untrained person would guess. I believe most accomplished painters do this automatically, and without knowing that they’re doing it. It’s a skill learned through repeated trial and error.
I also think that we can curtail some of that process of trial and error by getting closer to seeing value accurately and minimising the margin of error. That’s what the isolator does.
But it’s certainly not painting by numbers. Many times, as with the three cubes exercise, it will simply show you the limitations of the value range of paint. It will show you the values you can’t match. But that information alone is hugely valuable, since you’ll already know that you have to compensate for it. Instead of hunting and pecking (on the wrong piece of paper, like those unfortunate chickens) you’ll be in a position to make decisions about how to translate what you see into paint more effectively.
You can get better at values through just doing a lot of painting. That’s what most people do. Or you can get better at values through some very focused practice, working only on value for a while. The latter may be less fun, but I’d argue that it is also a lot less frustrating in the long run, because it will get you there more quickly and more reliably. And given the importance of value to creating realism, the effort is justified.
Free webinar
I demonstrated some of these exercises in a free webinar called Mastering Values. Whilst the webinars I do are intended as live events that people can get involved in and ask questions live, here’s a recording of the event. It was a lot of fun:
Despite his contributions to psychology, Wolfgang Köhler’s best known legacy is the phrase “The whole is more than the sum of its parts”. Although, he must turn in his grave every time someone says it, because his actual phrase was, “The whole is different than the sum of its parts”. It’s a central tenet of gestalt theory.
In a sense, when we build up a picture using the isolator as I’ve shown in the exercises above – or indeed, even when we do it through through experience and practice – we translate and combine the values we see into something new, something different that the sum of all those patches of value: an illusion of reality on a two dimensional surface.
The better we understand value, the very real limitations of our materials and how we can overcome them, the more convincing our illusions will be and the more light, form and depth our pictures will have.
The first step is understanding that value, like so many things in painting, is about relationships, not absolutes. As long as we remember that, we won’t find ourselves sitting on the wrong piece of paper, wondering where our dinner is.
Best wishes and thanks for reading,
Paul
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Would you please post your writing in a darker print? It is difficult for me to read the way it is. Thanks.
Certainly Nell, I’ll see what I can do.
Just finished watching your webinar so great thanks for all the info. Hope your cold is better.
Looking forward to next week will that link be emailed also?
Thanks again.
Hi Paul…thank you so much for your webinair. I learned so much and will be using the knowledge gained in my next painting. What is your opinion on the subject of lead white? Schmid in his book Alla Prima, says to use a lead primed linen panel and lead white mixed with titanium white for glowing whites. Is it true that lead paint creates whiter whites? (I have only used Winsor Newton Titanium white…professional grade)
When I’m painting finished pieces, not studies like this, I usually work on lead primed linen panels, or acrylic gesso panels.
As far as I’m concerned, the functional differences between lead white and titanium white are:
1. Lead white has a different consistency, it’s usually more gooey. So it’s good for building up impasto and painting “ropes” – thin strings of paint that can be allowed to hang of the brush and then be laid onto a painting to describe, say, the highlight on the rim of a bowl.
2. Lead white is a sightly lower value than titanium white. So if you want to use the full value range available in paint, use titanium white at the top end of the range.
3. Lead white has a warmer hue than titanium white, which is more blue. So if you’re painting a high value, warm colour, like a very light orange or yellow, you’d probably be best off using lead white since it will allow you raise the value without affecting the hue and the chroma as much as titanium. If you’re painting a blue-ish highlight, titanium will be better.
I can’t think of any good reasons personally for using a mixture of the two, I suspect it’s personal preference.
Just in passing, lead white dries quicker than other whites. That’s one of the reasons painters use it, especially in alla prima, well in any situations when you need your work to dry fast. Zinc white is the opposite and dries very slow, also prone to cracking in the long run. To be avoided.
For what it’s worth. Experiment with various brands as well as home made paint.
Best to all
And a huge thank you
Thanks Dominique, that’s a great point about the drying times.
Thanks Deborah 🙂 Yes, I’ll be sending out an email about next week’s webinar (on colour) and will be sending one with a link to watch yesterday’s on youtube for everyone who attended,
Thanks for coming along, I’m really glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for your posts about Value – always a pleasure to read, and highly informative!
You’re welcome Julie 🙂
Thank you, Paul. I have enjoyed your webinars.
You’re welcome Claudia. More to come this week 🙂
Paul~ Thank you for your ‘Mastering Values’ Webinar. I am building a studio and need to consider lighting and I was going to use free-standing lights. I see you commented you would send a link to someone (‘smith’, who watched your webinar) which included lighting details and products. Would you please provide your lighting link and/or product names to me also? Thank you for your generosity and taking time to help educate beginners like me.
Hi Deean,
I’ve just emailed you the link to the lights I currently use, but here’s the link for anyone else who happens by:
These are the actual lights I use to light the subjects for the webinars:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/PhotoGeeks-Continuous-Photography-Softboxes-Fluorescent/dp/B00JFQRU3K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454098151&sr=8-2&keywords=photogeeks+lighting+kit
I think the CRI (colour rendering index) of the bulbs that come with those lights may be a little low. It’s not stated on the product itself, but I’ve found some very similar that only have a CRI of around 80. I’ve just ordered some replacement bulbs that have a CRI of over 90 and should therefore be better, but haven’t tried them in the fittings yet:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018LR6FXE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
They may or may not fit!
Here’s a ink to some very similar lights on the US amazon – in fact they’re so similar I think they’re probably made by the same manufacturer:
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Continuous-Lighting-Softboxes-VL-9004S-3/dp/B004V4RISS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1454098312&sr=8-5&keywords=cowboy+studio+lighting+3+softbox
NOTE: These are not high quality photographic lights, and are a little spindly. For the price, though, they work fine. I’ve painted a couple of still lifes under them so far and find them to be more than up to the job. They’re a bit fiddly to take down and put up and I don’t expect that they’ll last forever, but for the price they’re pretty good.
As always, caveat emptor 🙂
Thanks for the really great article (and video!! that I have yet to watch) on values. I’ve shared your piece on my Facebook page, so hopefully more will read and watch. =)
Thanks Val, I really appreciate the share!
Thank you for the extremely helpful webinar. I’m looking forward to the one on color.
G.
You’re very welcome G. I’m getting quite excited about the colour one, it’s this Thursday and I have a couple of ideas for it 🙂
Great webinar. Thank you very much.
You’re very welcome Nelson. It’s always nice to see you in the chat, I know I have a friend watching 🙂
paul mil gracias por tu seminario me encanto ya que tengo falencias respecto a los valores pero ya entendi muchisimo mas ahora espero el seminario d e color de pasar de valores grises a color esto tambien se me dificulta pero se que contigo aprendere DIOS TE BENDIGA ….
De Nada Adriana
(I actually can’t speak Spanish at all so apologies if I got that completely wrong!)
Paul – This is a great article. Very thorough and interesting. I have a question about the color isolator exercise. I don’t quite get it. It looks like you have a piece of cardboard and cut a small (2 in by 2in) square out of the middle. Do I lay it on top of something–say a rock–and try to replicate the color I’m seeing? If so, I’m not quite getting how to do this. This would be awesome if demonstrated on YouTube. 🙂
Hi Jeff, that’s exactly it. I put together a video on how to do it here:
https://vimeo.com/148070602
Amazing Webnar Paul.it was a revealing for me. Thanks again dear..