The eighth session will be here on
Monday 28th June
6PM UK time (10AM Pacific, 1PM Eastern)
Pop back here when we’re due to start. Don’t forget to pop into the chat and say hi!
What we’ll be doing
In this final session of the workshop, we’ll be bringing our lemons and bowl painting from last week to a finish.
Hopefully the surface of your first stage will be dry enough to paint over now.
We’ll be approaching this in two ways:
- Painting opaquely, mostly in the lights
- Glazing over the shadow areas
In order to glaze over the shadow areas, the paint MUST be touch dry. We’ll be rubbing a very thin layer of oil over these areas before we paint into them. If the surface is still tacky, doing this will lift the paint. If yours is still tacky in the shadows, it will be better if you just watch this session and then paint along with the replay when it’s dry.
What you’ll need
Your block in from last week
Brushes: The same as you used last time, although a small round detail brush or two might be useful.
Medium: Linseed oil only. NO SOLVENT this time or it’s very likely that you’ll get sunken areas (these are areas where the layer underneath sucks the oil out of the new layer, deadening the paint. You lose chroma and the values will look wrong, as well as having a matte finish to these areas)
- Titanium or lead white
- Cadmium Yellow Lemon or Bright Yellow Lake
- Cadmium Yellow
- Yellow Ochre
- Green Gold
- Transparent Red Oxide
- Raw umber
- Ivory Black
- Phthalo Green (I’m using Winsor and Newton Winsor Green Yellow Shade)
I would advise having the colours below mixed again for this session, but we’ll be going a little more slowly and adjusting rather than painting in large areas. That said, having them mixed will help you orientate any mixing you do on the fly and keep you from making unintended changes!
Munsell notation of the colours: